Volume: 100 Gallons / 378 Liters
Dimensions (L × W × H):
48.0" ×
24.0" ×
20.0"
121.9cm ×
61.0cm ×
50.8cm
I use a combination of lighting that includes 2 x 400 watt Iwasaki metal halide bulbs on PFO ballasts for the main lighting, with a photoperiod of 10 hours. Additionally, I have 2 x 110 watt URI actinic VHO bulbs run on an Icecap 660 ballast, which are on for 12 hours. The sump is lit by a 175 watt 4.5KK metal halide bulb also on a PFO ballast, working on a reverse daylight schedule for 12 hours.
The bulbs are positioned approximately 7-8 inches above the water surface, which helps to provide adequate lighting for the corals while minimizing heat transfer to the tank water.
To promote successful growth of SPS corals, I maintain high concentrations of essential elements such as calcium and alkalinity using a calcium reactor. Furthermore, I ensure stable water parameters, perform monthly 10% water changes, and monitor water chemistry regularly.
If your corals are experiencing recession, it's essential to identify the possible causes, such as poor water quality or sudden changes in conditions. You can try relocating the coral to a more stable part of the tank with suitable light and flow, and make sure to monitor water parameters to ensure they're within ideal ranges.
My maintenance routine includes a monthly check-up which involves a 10% water change, thorough equipment checks, and adjustments for water chemistry. On a weekly basis, I clean the skimmer and the glass of the tank to remove algae and other deposits.
I use activated carbon occasionally; it’s typically recommended to replace it every 2-4 weeks depending on your tank's bioload and water quality. Regular changes can help in minimizing toxins and impurities in the water.
My filtration system consists of a 30-gallon refugium/sump with caulerpa algae, an AquaC Urchin in-sump protein skimmer, 100 lbs. of Marshall Island live rock combined with 20 lbs. of Monano live rock, and a 2-3” aragonite DSB.
I enhance circulation using a Sen 900 return pump, a continuously running Maxijet powerhead, and a Super Wavestrip wavemaker to control 3 additional Maxijet powerheads, which helps create varying currents and flow patterns throughout the tank.
For temperature control, I use a Medusa dual-stage temperature controller alongside a 1/4 Aqualogic drop-in chiller and a 300 watt Visitherm heater. To facilitate cooling during hot days, I also employ five axial fans in the canopy and a clip-on fan over the sump.
If your tank temperature rises unexpectedly, you should immediately turn on any cooling systems such as fans or chillers. Additionally, ensure that your heater is functioning properly and consider partial water changes with cooler water to gradually reduce the temperature.