Volume: 120 Gallons / 454 Liters
Dimensions (L × W × H):
48.0" ×
24.0" ×
24.0"
121.9cm ×
61.0cm ×
61.0cm
I currently use a combination of two 250-watt Hamilton 14K metal halide bulbs on old-style IceCap ballasts, accompanied by two 110-watt URI Actinic VHO bulbs running on an IceCap 660 ballast. This setup provides a good balance of light for my SPS corals and creates an appealing look.
My photoperiod is as follows: Actinics turn on at 9:30 am, followed by metal halides at 11:00 am, and metal halides turn off at 9:00 pm. I also run the refugium lights from 9:30 pm to 9:00 am.
I rely on a combination of live rock, skimming, and a filter pad. The main tank contains about 150 lbs. of Fiji live rock, and I use a EuroReef CS8-3 skimmer for efficient protein removal. Water is filtered through a 100-micron Pure Flo filter pad as it enters the sump.
I use an Iwaki MD70RLT for water circulation, which provides around 1000 GPH due to about 13 feet of head pressure. Additionally, I have added a Tunze Wavebox 6212, which helps create a surge effect that the fish, such as my Mustard tang, really enjoy. This improves coral health and polyp extension.
I keep my water parameters within the following ranges: Calcium: ~430 ppm, Alkalinity: 8-10 dKH, Specific Gravity: ~1.025, pH: 8.2-8.4, and Temperature: 78-80ºF. Monitoring and maintaining these levels is crucial for the health of both corals and fish.
I primarily use Calcium and Alkalinity supplements, controlled through a Geo 6" x 12" calcium reactor filled with CaribSea media. I also replace evaporated water with RO/DI water and am planning on automating this process in the future.
I perform regular maintenance by scraping algae from the glass every few days, emptying the skimmer collection cup once a week, and doing a 10-20% water change every 1-2 weeks using RO/DI water and a quality salt mix like Reef Crystals or Oceanic. Regular water changes are essential due to the high bioload from my fish.
I feed the tank relatively heavily once during the day with a mix of Mysis, brine shrimp, krill, nori, and scallops. Additionally, I target feed my Acanthastrea corals after the lights go out with Mysis, brine shrimp, and Cyclop-eeze. Occasionally, I soak the foods in Selcon for added nutrients.
I primarily grow SPS corals, such as various Acropora species, along with Acanthastrea and Montipora. I prefer a sparse distribution of corals to ensure there's enough swimming room for the fish. I also have notably watched my orange encrusting Montipora spawn, indicating a healthy environment.
I am very selective about the corals I introduce to ensure I can manage their growth effectively. I've removed aggressive corals like Xenia and star polyps, while reintroducing controllable types like zoanthids only in manageable locations. I believe that maintaining control over coral spread helps prevent overgrowth and potential issues.