Volume: 225 Gallons / 849 Liters
Dimensions (L × W × H):
96.0" ×
48.0" ×
30.0"
243.8cm ×
121.9cm ×
76.2cm
When selecting a pump for your reef tank, consider the tank size, desired turnover rate, and the specific flow requirements of your corals and fish. For example, my tank uses a Sequence 4200 external pump which provides around 4,200 gph. Aim for a flow rate of 20-35 times your tank volume per hour for a reef system to ensure adequate circulation and water quality.
I use T5 High Output (HO) bulbs, specifically two 4' long, eight-bulb TEK hoods and two 4' six-bulb hoods, totaling 28 bulbs. A good light schedule includes a gradual on-off period, and it's essential to have a mix of actinic and white bulbs, as this enhances coral colors and provides the necessary spectrum for photosynthesis.
To achieve good water circulation, install a closed-loop system with multiple returns, like I did with my tank using 1” and 1.5” bulkheads and a Sequence 4200 pump. Supplement this with additional powerheads (like Tunze pumps) to create varied flow patterns that prevent dead spots and promote coral health.
My setup includes external overflows, which feed into a sump that accommodates both a skimmer and a calcium reactor. The reef tank setup benefits from the Reeflo Orca skimmer and a Geo 818 calcium reactor. Consider investing in a high-quality skimmer that matches your tank size and load, and a calcium reactor to maintain optimal calcium levels without excessive additives.
Regular water testing is essential to monitor nutrient levels like nitrates and phosphates. I maintain zero nitrates and phosphates by ensuring good filtration, avoiding overfeeding, and using fish that help control pests in the tank. Regular water changes also help maintain low nutrient levels.
For my system, I've aimed for the following parameters: Calcium at 450 ppm, Alkalinity at 11.5 dKH, Magnesium at 1325 ppm, Salinity at 1.024, pH at 8.2, and a temperature range of 78-80°F. Regular testing and adjustments are crucial to keeping these parameters stable.
When aquascaping, create structures that allow for fish movement and coral growth. I use PVC racks and eggcrate to support live rock while allowing for water flow beneath. Incorporate a mix of rock shapes and sizes to create depth and interest. Pillars can add verticality, while leaving open areas encourages coral placement.
In my reef tank, I prioritize fish like tangs and wrasses for their beauty and behavior. They're particularly good for pest control. Choose species that are known to be reef-safe and will not harm your corals, such as different tangs, clownfish, and wrasses. Make sure to consider compatibility and tank mates.
To safely introduce new fish, quarantine them for at least 2-4 weeks in a separate tank to prevent introducing diseases. Acclimate new arrivals slowly to match the temperature and salinity of your main tank. Use a drip acclimation method for about an hour before releasing them into the main aquarium.
Some great beginner corals include soft corals like zoanthids and mushrooms, which are more forgiving and easier to care for. As you gain experience, you can progress to small-polyped stony (SPS) corals like Montipora and Acropora, which require more precise care but can be very rewarding.
Coral growth is best promoted through stable water parameters, adequate lighting, and proper feeding. Ensure you maintain calcium and alkalinity levels, as these are crucial for coral health. Additionally, consider using a calcium reactor to maintain these levels automatically.
To prevent diseases, maintain excellent water quality, avoid overstocking, and feed a balanced diet. Observe your corals regularly for signs of stress or disease, such as discoloration or recession, and address any problems promptly to prevent spreading.